About Me

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Former teacher, clinical social worker and now entrepreneur. My focus, no matter what career I am engaged in, has been on helping people. Now I am on an incredible journey to change life in a leaner, cleaner, greener way. I hope you will join me in this transition.

Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Want to Save Money on Groceries? Grow These Six Veggies at Home

If you are growing vegetables in the hope of saving money, here are some suggestions for crops which have delivered real cost savings for us…




By Greg Seaman, Eartheasy
Posted Jan 19, 2011

There are many benefits to growing your own vegetables, but saving money is not necessarily one of them. Some vegetables are simply cheaper to buy at the grocery store, and no amount of gardening savvy will result in a cost-saving benefit.

Over the years we have experimented with many vegetable crops, and while saving money is not the prime reason we grow vegetables, it is a consideration in our choice of what to plant. Although we are fortunate to have plenty of ground space for gardening, the work required to keep the beds fertile and weed free discourages us from planting some crops which are ‘dirt cheap’ when bought in season.

If you are growing vegetables in the hope of saving money, or want to make the most from limited garden space, here are some suggestions for crops which have delivered real cost savings for us. When planning your garden and buying seeds, however, be sure to choose varieties which do well in your growing region. Even within regions there are ‘micro-climates’ which affect growing conditions, so check locally for advice about recommended varieties for your locale.

1. Lettuce


You may have noticed the price of lettuce has risen considerably in the past two years. At a nearby market today, red leaf lettuce cost $1.79 for a small bunch. (And the Spring Mix, a ready to serve assorted lettuce mix sold in a plastic box, cost $4 per 300 grams!) If you grow your own lettuce, from a $2 package of seed you’ll recoup the cost within a few weeks and enjoy your own fresh lettuce for months. Be sure to plant only a small amount of seed, or the unharvested mature lettuce will bolt. Save the remaining seed for replanting every two to three weeks throughout the growing season. This will ensure a steady supply of fresh greens for the table.

In our garden we grow two varieties of leafy lettuce, Magenta (red leaf) and Concept (green leaf). We do not grow head-forming lettuce, like Iceberg, because it takes longer to mature and when ready it gives us too much lettuce at one time. We find that head lettuce also harbors more slugs. The leafy varieties are easy to harvest by picking the outer leaves, and this lets the plant continue to grow and produce.

2. Bell peppers


Green bell peppers cost about $1.50 each at our supermarket, and yellow and red peppers are even more expensive due to their extended ripening times. Pepper starter plants, however, cost about $1 each at our local nursery. This past year we planted ten pepper plants and each plant produced at least six peppers. We let most of our pepper crop mature until they turn red because they taste sweeter than green peppers. My rough estimate is that our $10 investment yielded about $100 in peppers. We don’t use commercial fertilizers, but did add about $5 in peat moss and $5 in amendments like rock phosphate and lime.

Easy to grow, peppers are commonly started early in small pots and transplanted when it’s warm enough outside. Pick off any small peppers that may form on transplants or the plant growth will be stunted. Pick the green peppers as soon as they reach size; this will stimulate new fruiting and increase the yield per plant. You can leave some plants unpicked if you want the peppers to sweeten and turn yellow or red; however, these plants will produce fewer peppers.

3. Garlic


The price of a garlic bulb ranges from $1 to $7 a pound. Our homegrown garlic, grown from cloves saved from the previous crop, cost less than $.50 a pound to grow ourselves.
Garlic is one of the easier crops to grow, but we lost our first couple of crops due to over-watering when the plants were mature. Garlic is often grown over winter which makes good use of garden space. Weeding is important as garlic does not like competition. Harvesting on time and curing properly are important for producing bulbs with good keeping qualities.

In northern regions, garlic does best when planted in the fall. The timing of fall planting should be such that the roots have a chance to develop and the tops do not break the surface before winter, about three weeks before the ground freezes. In some regions spring planting is traditional. We have planted garlic in the spring with mixed results.

4. Winter Squash


At our local supermarket today, winter squash varieties cost between $1.29 and $1.99 a pound. (This is mid-winter pricing, which is more costly.) Our four homegrown squash plants yielded about 40 squash, weighing 4 lbs each on average, which adds up to about 160 pounds. This is worth between $200 – $300. We were given the starter plants, and spent about $15 in soil amendments. Squash starter plants are available for about $2 each.

Winter squash are a favorite among gardeners because they’re easy to grow, don’t require weeding once established, and most importantly, they keep through the winter to provide a valued vegetable for eating all winter and spring. The squash bed does need to be richly prepared before planting, and the runners need a lot of room to spread. If you have space to spare, then growing winter squash makes sense, and saves dollars. (In the photo below, all the squash leaves are from a single plant, which yielded 14 large squash.)

5. Tomatoes


It’s difficult to come up with an accurate figure for the cost of tomatoes because the cost varies so much by season and region. But assigning a range of $2 to $4 a pound is reasonable for this comparison. Last summer we planted four plants of a large variety (Big Beef), two cherry tomato plants (Sun Gold), and two paste tomato plants. Each of the larger plants produced at least 15 large beefsteak tomatoes weighing 1 pound or more. I would estimate that we grew 80 pounds of tomatoes (worth $160 – $320) for a cost of about $40. (Starter tomatoes are about $4 each, and we added about $15 in amendments.
We grew all eight plants in the same 6’ x 12’ plot. The cherry tomatoes provide an early harvest, the large tomatoes are used for summer and fall eating, and the meaty paste tomatoes are good for freezing and canning. Paste tomatoes also make excellent fresh or cooked salsa and sauces. Having a ready supply of tomatoes for cooking during the winter months adds value, since the price of tomatoes goes up in winter.

6. Broccoli


Broccoli costs about $1.50 a pound, which is pretty cheap. Central head weights range from 0.3 to 1 pound, so you get a fair amount of broccoli for the price. After cutting off the central head, many side shoots will grow below, and will equal two to three times the original crown. Our ten broccoli plants produced about 2 pounds each, so we grew about $30 worth of broccoli for a cost of about $10 in soil amendments. The amount of money saved is not enough to get excited about, but the convenience of having fresh-picked broccoli available for 6 – 8 months is a real bonus.

Broccoli is a cool-season crop, and can be grown both as a spring and a fall crop. Broccoli is a heavy feeder and requires soil rich with organic matter. We plant our beds in green manure during the off-season which is a low-cost way of fertilizing the soil. Before planting, compost and peat are worked into the soil, and lime and rock phosphate if needed.

Broccoli is highly nutritious and has been deemed an anti-cancerous food by the American Cancer Society. This vegetable is a good source of Vitamin A, calcium, and riboflavin (or vitamin B2). Even in our northern region, we are usually able to keep a few broccoli plants over winter and harvest the side shoots which continue to sprout. We’ve even had a few hardy plants continue to produce while covered in snow.

The figures used in this article are approximate. We did not weigh every tomato or leaf of lettuce. And the list is by no means exclusive. There are other crops which are cost-effective to grow, and some of the crops listed on this page may be difficult to grow in some regions. The examples listed here show what’s worked best for us, and serve to illustrate that growing your own vegetables can bring down your family’s yearly produce expenses.

As any gardener knows, growing vegetables is more than about saving money. Growing your own vegetables is healthier for the family because the produce is fresh and (hopefully) grown without chemicals. It is better for the environment by reducing the cost of food transport, there are educational benefits for the children, and oh yes, the vegetables will taste so much better!

Re-Grow Your Green Onions


Here is a great idea from the Homesteading/Survival Blog.

Image from Homesteading/Survival Blog
Did you know you can regrow your green onions??

You can cut off the roots and put them in water, then the roots will absorb the water and start to grow a new green onion. It takes a good 2-3 weeks for the green onion to grow completely so... you can use it again, but it grows a whole new one!!!
 

If you like this idea, you’ll want to get this book - Grow it, Don’t Throw It!: 68 Windowsill Plants from Kitchen Scraps: http://amzn.to/TA9DD4

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Naturally Dyed Eggs with Full Instructions

Since Easter is coming up in less than a week, I thought I would post this great idea from Deb Thompson and the Just Short of Crazy Blog.

Natural Dyed Eggs-51
I decided to try my hand at making Easter Eggs using only natural ingredients this year. I pulled food and spices out of the cabinet and fridge and got busy trying different things to see what works and what doesn’t.
I remember my mom and grandma using red onion skins to dye eggs when I was child, but I don’t remember how they dyed the eggs using them. A little research and I had an idea of how to go about dyeing the eggs using natural ingredients.
I used the following items to dye eggs:
Coffee
Tea
Red Onion
Red Cabbage
Turmeric
Yellow Onion
Blueberry + Cranberry Juice
Blueberry
Chili Powder
Cayenne Pepper

natural dyed eggs
 
Alan is quite the trooper. He came home and saw my little experiment going on in the kitchen and just took it in stride. These bowls took up about 75% of my counter space so nothing else would be happening in the kitchen (ie: cooking dinner) until the experiment was over. The items that you see at the far left of the image are some of the ingredients for my super tonic that I’ll be sharing with you soon.

I left the eggs in the solution for 2.5 hours, 5 hours, and 9 hours just to see what kind of colors occurred over long periods.

2.5 hour titles

At 2.5 hours some of the eggs could have been considered done, but I wanted to see the results from leaving them in longer.

At five hours the red cabbage eggs are turning a beautiful color blue.

5 hour titles

Nine hours was too long. I could have been done at 2.5, perhaps sooner, for most of the eggs and 5 hours for the turmeric and red cabbage.

9 hours title

Some of the eggs could have come out of the solution right away and some others needed the full 9 hours. I’m sharing the “how to” for each egg below.

Here are the eggs after 9 hours in the liquid and air drying. The only exception is the two different blueberry eggs in the chart. The one in the upper right corner is blueberry and cranberry juice after nine hours and the eggs in the lower left is eggs just rolled in blueberry juice and removed immediately. The yellow onion was also only left in for a couple hours. I done those two sets of eggs the next day so didn’t include them in the 9 hour experiment.

Egg Titles


NATURAL DYED EASTER EGGS INSTRUCTIONS

I used two different methods to make these eggs; a cold method and a hot method.

For the majority of these eggs I used the cold method. Just mix the ingredients in a non-staining bowl (ie: glass is great) and add hard boiled eggs. Let them sit until the desired color is achieved.

For the hot method I added the ingredients and raw eggs to a non-aluminum pan, brought the mixture to a boil, reduced the heat and let simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit until eggs achieve the desired color.

The method used is noted in the directions below.

NOTE: The eggs may take on the flavor of the coloring agent.

Natural Dyed Eggs-17

YELLOW ONION SKINS: 1 cup of water, room temp + dry peel from one medium yellow onion + 1/8 cup of white vinegar (cold method). This combination will color one egg. Instead of throwing dry onion skins away during the year you can save them to color Easter eggs in the Spring. (The little dash of blue you see on the left side of the egg is from a rogue blueberry that ended up in the pan.

Natural Dyed Eggs-5

TEA: 3 tea bags+1 cup steaming hot water+1/8 cup of white vinegar (cold method). Steep the tea bags to make very strong tea. Add eggs and let sit in water until desired color is achieved.

Natural Dyed Eggs-16

BLUEBERRIES: 1/2 cup frozen blueberries (thawed & smashed) + 2 Tablespoons white vinegar (cold method). Roll eggs until color is achieved and then remove. These took just a couple minutes to make.

Natural Dyed Eggs-15

RED ONION SKINS: 1 Cup water + dry peel from 1 large red onion + 1/8 cup white vinegar (hot method). This combination colored 2 eggs. As with the yellow onion skins, red onion skins can be saved throughout the year as well.

Natural Dyed Eggs-14

TURMERIC: 2 cups warm water+ 3 tablespoons turmeric + 1/8 cup white vinegar (cold method). This ended up being one of my favorite colors. The turmeric creates a beautiful yellow color that reminds me of spring. The darker areas are where the egg sat on undissolved turmeric.

Natural Dyed Eggs-13

CAYENNE PEPPER: 2 cups warm water + 3 tablespoons cayenne pepper + 1/8 cup white vinegar (cold method). The speckles are created from the undissolved cayenne pepper.

Natural Dyed Eggs-12

RED CABBAGE: 1/2 of red cabbage head, chopped up + 1/8 cup white vinegar + 4 eggs + enough water to cover eggs (hot method). I love, love, love this color. The egg with white speckles/lines was created by wrapping an egg in a cabbage leaf and securing with a rubber band and then adding to pan with the other ingredients.

Natural Dyed Eggs


Natural Dyed Eggs-7

BLUEBERRY/CRANBERRY JUICE: 1 cup frozen blueberries, thawed and smashed, 1/2 cup 100% cranberry juice + 1/8 cup white vinegar (cold method). I’m not sure how much impact the cranberry juice had on the color but I needed some liquid for the eggs to sit in and I didn’t want to dilute it with water so I used some cranberry juice. 9 hours was too long, in my opinion, for these eggs. I thought they were perfect around 2.5 hours for a light spring color.

Natural Dyed Eggs-6

CHILI POWDER: 2 cups warm water + 3 tablespoons chili powder + 1/8 cup white vinegar (cold method). Eh, wouldn’t make these again. The color reminded me a lot of brown eggs.

Natural Dyed Eggs-4

COFFEE: 1 cup of very strong brewed coffee + 1/8 cup white vinegar (cold method). This egg was a little darker, but I wiped the egg off after taking it out of the liquid and ended up with this light tan color.

SAFETY NOTE:

Thanks to reader Charity Woods for bringing up the safety issue of consuming eggs that have sat out. I neglected to mention this in my post so please be advised of the following: “Do not eat hard boiled eggs that have been left out for more than 2 hours. Refrigerate hard boiled eggs within 2 hours 45degrees or less, eat within 1 week! Raw eggs can only be left out for 2 hours or less also. We don’t want people out there getting sick.”

Monday, March 25, 2013

How to Trellis Tomatoes

I can never get those tomato cages to work for me. I tried the Topsy-Turvy one year and dumped the tomatoes all over the ground ... maybe I will try this method for staking up my tomatoes this year.

Trellis like a Pro
by Sandy Swegel
 

 
My tomatoes are only a few inches tall and still indoors, but this is the ideal time to start thinking about how to trellis them. For years I fiddled with the dinky round tomato cages sold everywhere that just fall over when faced with a large indeterminate tomato. One year I even tried tying two cages on top of one another and it still fell over.

Market Farmers don't use wussy home-gardening-type trellises. They bring out the T-Posts and plastic baling twine orstring. (This is one time you can't use natural twines like jute or cotton...they are too stretchy.) The most common technique is called the Florida Weave.



Basically, you place tall (7 foot min) T-posts at each end of your tomato row. Every two or three plants, add a stake (or another T post). You will then “weave” the twine around the T-posts and tomatoes in a basic figure-eight shape. T-posts are super sturdy and stay put once you pound them into the ground. Ideally, you can string the T-posts before the tomatoes are tall or perhaps even planted. As the tomatoes grow you can tuck the growing edge into one of the rows of string. The beauty of the Florida Weave is that even if you are late getting your trellising in place, you can still do a pretty good job pulling up the overgrown tomatoes.


Photo Credits and More Info:
http://www.specialtycrops.colostate.edu/techniques/trellis.htm#tomatoes
http://www.foogod.com/~torquill/barefoot/weave.html
http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/cat-s-cradle-tomatoes
http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/articles/supporting-cast-for-tomatoes.aspx

Sunday, March 24, 2013

Alternatives to Soy: Substitutes for Soy Products

If you are like me and my husband and you are in the process of eliminating soy in your diet, this article from The Kitchn has some great suggestions for alternatives for tofu, miso, soy sauce and more.

Image from www.thekitchn.com
If you're allergic to soybeans or want to reduce your consumption of soy for other reasons, foods like tofu, miso, and soy sauce are out. A soy-free diet can be even harder if you're a vegetarian or vegan. Check out this list of soy alternatives and leave your own suggestions in the comments.

Edamame Substitutes: Green peas and fresh fava and lima beans are good substitutes.
 
Miso Substitutes: Miso is traditionally made from fermented soybeans, but chickpea versions can be found from South River Miso Company and Miso Master, and South River also makes an adzuki bean miso. If you have the patience to wait a year, you can also go the DIY fermentation route (Sandor Katz is a good resource).
 
Tofu and Tempeh Substitutes: Unfortunately there's no true substitute for these products, but depending on the dish you may be able to use ingredients like mushrooms (puffballs are especially tofu-like), chickpeas and other beans, or seitan that has made without soy sauce. Ricotta cheese, sour cream, and yogurt can sometimes work in place of silken tofu.
 
Soy Milk Substitutes: Other milk alternatives like rice and almond milk tend to be much lower in protein, although many of them do have other nutritional benefits. If it's protein you're after, consider goat's milk, hemp milk (which contains 10 essential amino acids), or homemade quinoa milk.
 
Soy Sauce Substitutes: Soy sauce, shoyu, tamari, and Bragg Liquid Aminos are all made from soybeans. Instead, try coconut aminos made from coconut tree sap.
 
Textured Vegetable Protein (TVP) Substitutes: This soy protein is often used as a substitute for ground meats. Similar textures can be achieved by using hamburger, quinoa, or coarse bulgur.

Planting and Care for Onions

We are getting ready to plant our onions this weekend.  I went to Shonnard's Nursery and bought some Walla Walla transplants, some shallot sets, and a pack of bunching onions (scallions or green onions).  I went to WikiHow and found this information on how to plant and care for onions.  Enjoy!

Grow Sweet Onions
 
Sweet onions, a dry bulb root vegetable, are often referred to by their regional names, such as Vidalia, Sweet Spanish, Bermuda, Maui Sweet and Walla Walla. Region is important in deciding their flavor, as they are chosen and planted according to the amount of daylight in the growing region. For example, short-day varieties only require 12 to 14 hours of light per day, while long-day varieties require at least 14 to 16 hours of light daily. Sweet onions require a good amount of attention, and they are planted differently than other dry bulb or green onions. This article will tell you how to grow sweet onions.

Steps:

1. Research your growing zone. You can often find this online and it will determine whether you need to choose a short-day or long-day sweet onion variety. This is important, since the season in a warmer climate is very different from the season in a northern area.

If you live in the United States, you can consult the United States Department of Agriculture website. It features a hardiness zone chart that will advise you on what you can plant in your garden.

2. Decide if you want to plant your onions in seed, seedling or set form. An onion set is a small onion bulb that has already begun to grow.

If you have a shorter growing season, order sets of onions and place them in moist potting soil 2 to 3 weeks before you plant them outdoors. They will begin to sprout and grow roots.

To get a good selection of sweet onions, you may have to order them from a catalog, rather than a gardening center. They will also be more expensive.

3. Till your garden as soon as it is thawed in the spring, or harvested from the previous season in the fall. Planting happens in the fall in hotter climates, and in the spring in cooler climates.

Plant onions in the fall, if you live in milder plains climates. Plant onions in the spring if you live in mountain climates that see a lot of snow.

4. Choose a place in your garden that has well-drained soil. This ensures that the onion does not sit in still water and rot or develop mold.

5. Add some compost to your soil before you plant. Work it down into the soil using garden tools or a tiller. Onions like a good amount of organic matter in the soil.

6Plant the onions in the soil differently, depending if you are using seeds, seedlings or sets.

If you are growing sweet onions from seeds, plant each seed 3/8 of an inch (1 cm) deep and 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) apart. When you plant rows, make sure they are 15 inches (38 cm) apart. Once they become seedlings, you will want to thin your onions until they are 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart. Thinning means to pull up seedlings that are too close together to make sure they are not competing for the same growing space and nutrients.

If you are growing sweet onions from seedlings, then plant them 1 inch (2.54 cm) into the soil, about 4 inches (10.2 cm) apart. Rows should remain separated by 15 inches (38 cm).

If you are planting sweet onions from sets, plant them 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart, and rows at 15 inches (38 cm) apart. Plant them shallowly, with the roots into the ground, and the bulb only about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) into the ground. Pinch dirt around the onion so it stays supported. Place compost, mulch or finely cut hay around each onion to give it further support.

7. Water the onions every 5 to 7 days. They will need more water in the beginning and less at the end of the growing season. Depending upon the amount of rain you get, you may not need to hand water them very often.

8. Weed your onion bed often by hand and with a hoe. Weeds compete with the onion for nutrients, so you want to keep them weed free.

9. Wait 3 months to harvest your onions, if they started from sets. If you planted seeds or seedlings, they will take a few weeks to a month longer, depending upon the warmth of your growing season.

10. Harvest when the tops of the onion plant turn from green to yellow and the stalks fall over.

Many commercial farmers break the tops of the plants when they start to yellow, to stop them from ripening and start them curing. Many small-scale gardeners believe that this causes smaller bulbs that do not store for very long.

Harvest before the plant begins to flower. If you have flowering onion plants, remove the onion from the ground immediately and use it. It will not store like your other plants.

11. Pull the mature onion bulbs out of the ground in the morning.

12. Lay them on top of the soil and allow them to air dry until late afternoon. If the sun is especially hot, they should be taken out of the sun and dried outside in the shade.

13. Tie or braid the onions together in small bunches.

14. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for 2 to 3 weeks.

15. Cut the bulb tops to be 1 inch (2.54 cm) long.

16. Store them in a cool, dry place that is well-ventilated. Store sweet onions for up to 2 months. Because of their higher water content, they do not last as long as other dry bulbs.


This might be a good kit to put together and toss into the back of your car in case of emergency from Prepping to Survive.

Making a 32-Piece Every Day Carry (EDC) Survival Kit

February 11, 2013
my edc
 
My wallet isn’t thick and it’s certainly not lined with credit cards, but I do carry something with me every day that is much more important than any piece of plastic from a financial institution. It’s my Every Day Carry (EDC) Survival Kit.

I put this kit together many years ago with one thought in mind: if I were to get stranded on the side of the road over night, if I were to get lost in the woods for a few days, if I were to not be able to make it home for any reason and had to spend the night without food or pre-made shelter, what would I want to have with me to make my stay more pleasant.

As I assembled the items, I wanted the kit to be lightweight and easy to carry. A heavy or cumbersome kit will most often get left behind and that defeats the purpose.

I started with a small Altoids tin but I quickly found some deficiencies with that container. Now I use a Maxpedition EDC Pocket Organizer. It works well despite being a little larger than I’d like.

Here’s what my EDC includes:
  1. Contractor yard bag
  2. 5 self-adhesive bandages
  3. 4 self-adhesive butterfly bandages
  4. Moleskin
  5. Index cards
  6. Cotton balls (inside the Altoids tin)
  7. Ibuprofen (inside the Altoids tin)
  8. Altoids Mini Tin
  9. Duct tape
  10. Waterproof matches
  11. Iodine tablets
  12. Iodine tablet neutralizer
  13. P-38 can opener
  14. Whistle
  15. Aluminum foil
  16. Sterile surgical blade
  17. Safety pins
  18. Snare wire
  19. Pen
  20. Emergency Thermal blanket
  21. Mag Lite Solitaire flashlight
  22. Swiss Army knife
  23. 10′ of paracord
  24. Firesteel
  25. Small fish hooks
  26. Split-shot fishing sinkers
  27. 50 feet of fishing line
  28. Rubber band (around the plastic bag)
  29. Resealable plastic bag
  30. Bandana
  31. Maxpedition EDC Pocket Organizer
  32. Resealable dry pouch
That’s what’s in my kit as of today. However, over the years, I’ve found that my kit is always a work in progress. I’ll find something else that may be of use to me in a survival situation and stuff it in the kit. As I learn new skills or grow in ability, I may remove other items.

my edc put together

In prior posts, I’ve written about the multiple uses or purposes of many of these items. For example, the yard bag can be used as make-shift rain gear, a water catch, a shelter covering, an insulated jacket, or a distress signal. Likewise a handkerchief or bandana has a bunch of uses for the survivor. You can find these posts in the Survival Kit category. I’ll continue to post about the other items.

I typically carry this kit in a backpack with other supplies including my first aid kit, some homemade MREs, a rain coat, a water bottle, metal cup, fixed-blade knife, etc. So, although this kit is designed to be self-contained, I do typically have some other items with me as well. I’ll post that list another time.

What am I missing? What do you carry?